One of my former editors once said to me: "California seems like it's either drowning or burning." Barely a few weeks into the official start of the fire season for more than a dozen counties, parts of Northern California were already burning. One part was in Butte County, in the rugged canyons of pines and oaks that lead into the Town of Paradise, a quaint foothill community of about 27,000 residents. It was the first time I've ever covered a large wildland fire.
I left Wednesday evening, and arrived two hours later in Chico at about 9 p.m. I went first to the staging area, only to find two firefighters sitting by a parking lot. I decided to check out the evacuation shelter, and found a handful of people who had evacuated. By the time I fed some of the quotes and color to my editor, it was around 10:30 p.m. -- time to seek out accommodation for myself. The first three hotels I drove to were fully occupied, and I thought I would have to spend the night in the car or at the shelter with the evacuees and the Red Cross volunteers when I finally found a hotel with vacancies.
As it turned out, several fire departments from out of town were also putting up their firefighters at the same hotel. Around midnight, while I was sorting out problems with my key at the front desk, they arrived en masse with their trucks and engines. I chatted with a few of them, and found out that fire officials were holding an early morning briefing session at the command center, which was at a college campus about 8 to 10 miles south of the hotel.
I woke up about 6 a.m. the next day, so I could make it to the briefing by 7 a.m.
After stopping by the shelter in Chico, I decided to head towards Paradise, where more evacuations were underway and the fire was threatening thousands of its residents. As I later learned, Paradise is only accessible by three main routes from the south. I took the route called the Skyway, where I came close to the flames and the smoke, but not before I stopped to talk to some residents who live in the canyon on Honey Run Road. A woman told me how she and her family survived the fire storm that surrounded her two-story stucco home the night before. She watched as flames seared trees across the street on a hillside behind her neighbor's home. At some point, the fire jumped, narrowly missing her house and engulfing the slope behind her property. She hunkered down with her family and listened to the crackling sound of charred leaves. The fire calmed down after midnight, and she went to sleep at about 1:30 a.m. I told her she was brave, or crazy, and she laughed. "We have a house we want to protect," she said.
The Skyway runs along a ridge. I saw some firefighters by the roadside who had been fighting a flare-up. I put on my gear - a pair of oversize bright yellow pants I had to hold in place with a belt, an equally oversize bright yellow jacket, a pair of goggles and a fire helmet that made me feel like I was balancing a jug of water on my head - grabbed my notebook and pen, and got out of the car.
As it turned out, I recognized some of the firefighters, and they recognized me (even though I looked like I was in a spacesuit). They were the ones I met in the hotel lobby. One of them gave me a quick interview and described how the fire had been "skunking" around the canyon the whole morning when the winds finally picked it up and brought it out of the canyon and onto the ridge. The landscape was charred, with smoke rising out of the ground. The winds were brutal, the temperature was boiling and I was swimming in my "spacesuit" -- and in perspiration.
I would return to my car intermittently, to dictate notes to a colleague and to talk to my editor. On one occasion I was on the phone with my editor and not paying attention to my surroundings. Suddenly, flames erupted from a smoldering spot near the car. I hung up on my editor abruptly and hit the accelerator (a colleague had advised me to keep the engine running - good advice, as I've realized) to escape the flames.
I tried to continue eastbound towards Paradise several times, to an area where structures had already been burnt or were burning, but the heavy smoke and unrelenting fire that just seemed to grow bigger and bigger made it close to impossible, and dangerous, for me to advance.
I waited, along with some other law enforcement and government agencies (non-firefighters) on the eastbound lanes, for the fire to calm down. Flames rose out of the canyon, like the tongues of hell, licking the ridge mercilessly and furiously. At one point, I saw flames burning inside the trunk of a tree that has cracked open. The phantasmagorical landscape, shrouded in thick smoke and aglow in a faint orange hue, was strangely beautiful, savage and scary at the same time.
More fire engines and emergency crews came tearing up the highway to battle the flames, but the high winds continued to pick up errant embers and start new patches of fire in what firefighters call "heavy spotting."
When the flames jumped the highway to the other side, I decided it was time to go. I couldn't proceed to the turn-around point because the fire was there; I couldn't cross the median from where I was because it was a wide ditch. I couldn't go onto a shoulder because there was none. My only option was to travel west on the eastbound lanes, i.e., in the opposite direction of oncoming traffic. The roads were closed to all but emergency crews, law enforcement officials and media personnel, so my odds of meeting with a head-on collision were greatly reduced. I turned on the hazard and head lights and prayed, while I drove slowly and watched for traffic.
An intern had asked me recently what has been the scariest incident I've encountered in my career so far. I've had a few "uncomfortable" situations -- when I have knocked on doors in sketchy or isolated rural neighborhoods, when I have met hostile and belligerent news subjects, when I have driven in a snow storm, when I have walked through a rice field with snakes and when I have encountered not-so-adorable dogs (in fact, I am afraid of most dogs so sometimes going onto an unfamiliar property and hearing a dog bark is scary enough in itself, but I hate to admit that to my editors) -- but I couldn't really give an answer to the intern then. If she asks me again now, I will definitely have an unequivocal answer for her.
Almost a third of the town of Paradise evacuated Thursday, packing the shelters in Chico. I stopped by one of them, and noticed that many of the evacuees were elderly retirees. One woman (I think she was 81 years old, if I remember correctly) was worried about her kitties.
I spent most of Friday in Paradise, interviewing people preparing to evacuate as fears of the fire spreading to the western part of town grew. I stood with a woman on her back porch, which offered a spectacular view of Butte Creek Canyon, where a recalcitrant fire was still burning. Her raw timber house, tucked at the end of a dirt road amidst tall trees and shrubs, was gorgeous. Amongst her prized possessions was a baby grand piano, which she was afraid of losing if the fire came across from the canyon.
I hardly slept or ate while working on the story, but the adrenalin sustained me. I came back home Friday night. By then, it appeared the situation was improving but the damage already done. The fire had scorched more than 20,000 acres and destroyed about 70 homes.
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In a story that my colleague wrote for Monday's paper, the Paradise town clerk was quoted as saying "what gave it its beauty also gave it its danger." She was talking about how the stunning natural features of the town also acted as fuel for the fire. I thought it was a good commentary for some philosophical reflection, if anyone is so inclined to ponder over it.